Every few months, a group of friends and I try out a new restaurant in Vancouver and have our own little review ceremony afterwards. This month it was Tequila Kitchen, authentic Mexican cuisine in the heart of Yaletown.
Tequila Kitchen is a simple eatery, spacious and clean with a partially exposed half-moon kitchen. There is ample elbow room for big bustle potential, as it’s wide open and breezy. The decor is warm yet simple and unpretentious with a lot of natural light. The staff all speak fluent Spanish, so the authentic, warm accent was a nice touch to the graceful service.
The main concept behind the restaurant is that of a “botana: meals served in sampler platters where friends can enjoy sharing many different menu items.” The menu is not another trio of El Paso salsa, salty guac and sour cream piled on top of a soggy burrito or enchilada swimming in a pool of refried beans. It’s authentic Mexican food, the real thing, how it’s eaten by locals in the land itself.
The first appetizer on the list is the best, damn guacamole I’ve ever tasted – spicy and fresh with chopped tomatoes and a hint of lime scooped up with crispy, baked tortilla strips. It didn’t need any salsa or sour cream, it was so good on it’s own. My friend across from me enjoyed the Queso Fundido al Tequila – melted Mexican white cheese infused with tequila and garnished with fresh tomato, onion and Serrano chile. Being a huge cheese lover, I couldn’t help myself from giving in to the enticing aroma and reaching over (while asking permission) to dip my chips in the warm, gooey heaven.
My friends enjoyed entrees consisting of Pollo en Pipian Verde – chicken breasts in a green pumpkin seed sauce; Cordero en Salsa Borracha – braised lamb shank prepared in a spicy drunken sauce; and Pato en Salsa de Jamaica – slow roasted duck breast in a Hibiscus and Serrano chile glaze.
I tried the Manchamanteles – which literally translates as “tablecloth stainer” – oven-cooked pork in a blend of chiles and fruit sauce. It sounded so mouth wateringly soft and decadent, but I found the pork a bit tough and the sauce and rice were bland. But that was a great excuse to slather on more of that sassy guacamole to add some flavour.
But my favourite part of the night was the drinks (of course, one track mind). I started the evening with a TK Mojito, using Cazadores tequila instead of rum, muddled with raspberries, mint and sugar, topped off with soda. At first, I cringed at former memories of tequila coming straight back up as soon as I swallowed the brazen sap of the agave. But the waiter confidently reassured me that this tequila was pure, the best of the best, and promised a hangover and projectile-free experience. I conceeded and gave it a shot. I was suprised to find the mojito quite watered-down and lacking mojo, so I inquired about my drink of choice, the Cosmpolitan Martini. The waiter directed me to the Tequila Cosmo, which, according to the menu writer, is “the elegance of a NY City night club meets a humble atmosphere” – 1 ½ oz Cazadores Reposado, ½ oz Cointreau, and CranbeMexicanrry Juice. Still a little hesitant to try a stronger tequila mix, I gingerly sipped the fruity cocktail. It was delicious – smooth and refreshing all the way down, and it stayed down, so well I ordered another. And another.
Tequila is taken quite seriously here. It is not just a gimmick or a quick way to get wasted. The good quality stuff is like a fine wine or whisky, something to be savoured, sipped and treated with utmost respect. The waiter went on to tell me that the executive chef Juan Gonzalez wrote his university thesis on tequila, so he brings some serious knowledge to the bar. Like the little known fact that tequila comes from the blue agave plant. Contrary to many misconceptions, it is not a cactus, but a plant with spear-shaped leaves and a pineapple-shaped heart called the “piña.”
The bar serves 19 different kinds of high quality tequila, including the super-premium category that commands the same prices as a fine cognac, such as the Grand Patron Platinum. All of their cocktails are made with tequila. They also serve Mexican beer and local B.C. and warm climate wines.
There are five different categories of tequila:
– blanco (or silver)
– oro (gold), which is sweetened with caramel
– reposado (rested), which is aged in oak casks for two months to a year
– añejo (aged), aged in oak for more than a year
– maduro (extra-aged), aged at least three years
Most of my group left shortly after dinner, but a few of us lingered to savour our drinks. The waiters were very friendly, chatty and accommodating, not making us feel that we were in the way (even though we were, four of us taking up three large tables in the center of the restaurant, yapping and laughing loudly).
As I write this the next day, I am hangover free, and feeling great! I want more of this Mexican food, service, style and liquor all to myself, yet I’m willing to share with more of my friends, since that’s what Tequila Kitchen is all about.
MORE TK RECIPES
Tequila Kitchen’s refreshing sipper is perfect for the patio.
HIBISCUS ROSE MARGARITA

